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In this section there is the basic information for
the pond owner and for anyone planning on adding a pond to their yard.
Measuring for your Pond Liner
Depth x 2 + Length + 2 = Total Length
Depth x 2 + Width + 2 = Total Width
You will need to round off your measurements to the nearest 5 ft. increment for total
liner size
Example: 10ft. x 6ft. x 3ft. pond would require
3 x 2 + 10 + 2 = 18ft. for length
3 x 2 + 6 + 2 = 14ft. for width
Liner rounded to nearest 5ft. increment and you would require a 20ft. x 15ft. liner for
example size pond.
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To calculate pond volume
If you have or planning on building a square or
rectangular style pond the following formula will give you an approximate volume in
gallons.
For measurements in Feet
Length x Width x Depth (or average depth) x 7.5 =
Total in U.S. gallons
Length x Width x Depth (or average depth) x 6.25 = Total in Imp. gallons
For measurements in Inches
Length x Width x Depth (or average depth) x 231 =
Total in U.S. gallons
Thinking of creating a Water Feature
When a homeowner plans on adding a water feature to
their backyard landscape, they need to first decide on what type of water feature that
would like. One first should spend same time on whether they envision some sort of
babbling brook, a waterfall, a soothing fountain, water garden or a pond with Goldfish
and/or Koi. Any one of the features mentioned is a good addition to a backyard landscape
keeping in mind to it's setting, theme and the right fit. So before you rush out and start
purchasing your products for building your water feature or pond you'll need to do a
little bit of homework first and make that dission on what type of water feature you'll be
adding to your landscape. No matter what you decide on whether it is something small like
a fountain, water garden with plants and goldfish or a Koi pond, you can give yourself
endless hours of pleasure in the way of a visual experience, sense of pride and of course
there is that soothing source of stress relief by the sound of water flowing, trickling or
just gently tumbling over a waterfall or fountain.
Pond Planning - plan & design
The biggest and most hardest part of building and
installing a water feature or pond in your yard is the planning stage, if not planned out
right in the beginning you could easily end up with headaches down the road. After you
have decided on what type of feature you would like there comes the searching out of
materials, but you should first do some kind of budget on your water feature or pond. With
planning your pond spend time envisioning where and how one would be best suited in your
yard looking at all aspects that go with having a water feature added to your landscape.
Choosing your site - location
You'll want to set the location of your pond as
close to your house or in the yard in which one can visually enjoy the site and sound of
your water feature whether you build a small water garden or Koi pond. You will need to
remember when choosing a site that it will be a major or supplement feature in your
landscape but not to have it over-power the surrounding landscape in the yard. When you
choose your site remember to take into consideration of the surrounding ground area,
whether the ground is level or sloped, not to be placed in an area where runoff from the
house roof or ground water will enter your pond. Take note of any trees in the yard and
their root systems which can damage the pond sidewall as well as their roots can get in
the way when digging your hole. Trees that drop their leaves and needles can easily
increase your maintenance time on keeping your pond clean and clear of debris. Also, your
pond should be shaped but still receive about 5 to 6 hours of sunlight a day for the water
plants and for warming the water during the summer months. After you have determined the
location of your water feature or pond you'll need to consider the shape and style of it.
What type of pond do you desire, a formal shape with straight edges or a more natural type
of pond that can blend into your existing landscape.
The best way to get a feel of what your pond would
look like in the yard is to use your garden hose and lay it out and shape and size it to
your proposed pond. Leave the hose laded out in the area you plan on building the pond for
a few days to get an idea on how the shade pattern develops over the course of the day,
making note on how long the area receives sun and shade. After a few days and if any
changes were made during that course of time and you are happy with the site location use
a can of black spray paint and mark the shape on the outside area of the hose, this way
you'll have a semi-permanent outline of your pond.
Materials - what type to use
This is one of the most important area in beginning
your water feature or pond construction is that the material you use to construct your
pond. What you use will have an effect on its design not to mention your budget along with
the look of your finished pond. There are a few different types of materials one can use
that has been on the market and used for many years now in the hobby industry and they are
briefly listed below.
Preformed Ponds
There are a few manufacturers of preformed ponds
on the market to choose from.
Most are of the depth and water volume that is
insufficient for keeping Koi but are very well suited for a few goldfish and water plants.
These types of ponds are mainly used for yards with very limited space or by someone who
just wants a small water feature to enhance their landscaping.
Preformed ponds are made from a tough material and
therefore are long lasting.
They have various interesting shapes and sizes
with no unsightly creases and no restriction on suitable sites.
Lastly they are quick and easy to install without
taking up very much room in your yard.
Liner Ponds - EPDM Rubber
Firestone PondGuard is by far the most
widely used type of material used in the Landscaping and Nursery Industry of today.
Firestone PondGuard EPDM rubber liner is fairly
cheap to buy, quick to fit (depending on the size of your pond).
EPDM liner comes in various widths ranging from 5'
all to way to 50' and is mainly sold by the square foot at 5' increments.
Not all retailers will have the available widths
of liner but do carry the most commonly called for at 10', 15', 20', 25', 30' and 35'.
The main draw back of using rubber liner is the
creases it creates when being placed in the hole.
These unsightly creases can be dealt with after
liner is placed in the hole by using 3" or 6" double sided liner seam tape than
with a 12" single sided tape over the crease seam to basically hide what is commonly
called the dog's ear.
Rubber liners can last for 20 plus years if they
are installed propably by using an underlay first before liner is placed in excavated hole
Underlay is to prevent any punctures to the liner
from either rocks or tree roots, use of this material is highly recommended.
Fibreglass
Building a water feature or pond using fibreglass
has been widely used in the past by Koi hobbyists and to this day are still holding out
but not without problems. Using the material to build your pond from fibreglass matting is
and can be a very labour intense job not alone the cost of using this material. For one to
build a water feature from fibreglass is having the knowledge in working and applying the
multiple layers of woven matting and ensuring it is done under the right conditions. The
advantage in using fibreglass is that you can create any type of shape you wish and you
can stop and start the building process at your leisure, except when you need to apply the
finish gel coat. Having a pond built out of fibreglass will not affect your water
chemistry, algae does not grow to well on it, easy to repair and can have a long life if
done properly.
Concrete
Another type of building material that can and has
been used is concrete or concrete blocks, is more expensive than a liner and almost equal
in cost as a fibreglass pond. Using concrete for a small pond can be done without to much
difficulty and can last for sometime but larger ponds should be done by a professional
contractor who specializes in constructing concrete ponds. Concrete block has an advantage
over the other types of material is that it can be used above ground without any type of
forms. Use of concrete blocks are more so for formal shape ponds and water features and
you can construct at your leisure but need to completely coat the entire inside with a
plaster coat or a sealer such as Hecht rubber sealer which will add to your construction
cost.
Construction - the easy or hard part
Preformed Pond
After you have spent some considerable time in
deciding and planning out your water feature or pond now comes the day of starting the
construction of your project and hoping everything comes together. If installing a
preformed pond this is fairy easy to do, most of these ponds should come with the basic
instructions from the manufacturer for installation. In the case where you do not receive
any instructional papers start off by turning the pond upside down and marking out the
shape, cutting into the ground using a shovel. Start digging the area away but remember to
take into account of any shelves or ledges and do not dig to the maximum depth of the pond
or it could distort under the weight of the water. The use of sand for levelling out any
bumps in excavation helps so the pond can sit level and flush with the ground, if it will
be slightly raised mark height with wooden stakes. After pond is installed and level in
it's hole back fill with the soil removed and gently pack in place as not to disturb pond.
EPDM Rubber Liner
If you are using a liner for your project the
basic excavation is almost the same as a preformed pond but in a much bigger way. Your
area should be marked out by either stakes or spray can and should be a bit larger than
what your pond size will be and also take into account for the pond ring.
Depending on your ground surface one can use
various materials for the collar of the pond, using treated landscape ties, concrete or
landscape blocks, or built up soil from excavated hole.
Installing a rubber liner can be done anytime of
the year but is best on a dry day.
If done during the warmer months laying it out in
the sun first for a period of time this helps in the aid of placing it into the hole by
making it more flexible and easier to handle.
Be sure the side walls are as straight up and down
as possible with no protruding ground debris such as sharp rocks and roots.
Your bottom should be sloped towards the centre if
at all possible for where the bottom drain can easily pick up debris.
The application of soft sand on the side walls and
bottom to fill any small holes an to give a smooth surface before liner is recommended.
As well use an underlay made of Geotextile type
material is also required or old carpet has also been used but this can over time rot in
the ground.
Place the folded up liner in the hole and unfold
so it goes length ways and then unfold it width ways.
You'll need to jump into the pond and start
placing the liner and straitening out it's folds just before water is to be added.
If there is a through the liner bottom drain
ensure it is installed properly to avoid leaks.
Create your corner folds and apply seaming tape if
you are using it to keep the folds down in place.
At this time you should be ready to start adding
the water. Let the water fill and as it is rising in height gently push the bottom and
side corners in place as well as trying to remove any wrinkles in the bottom.
During this time it may be a good time in doing
any type piping work for your filter feed.
Work on a waterfall can now be started during the
fill up of pond depending on it's gallonage.
After your pond is now full of water you can
finish off the edging by using either flat stone, coping slabs, treated lumber wherever
will give you that desired finish look you desire to compliment your landscape.
Equipment - essential parts
This is where you will spend most of your budget in
building and installing your water feature or pond. A good tip before starting your water
feature or pond is to make a list of all the equipment you would want to include in your
project. By doing this you won't accidentally go over your budget and it will also help
you in the planning process. It's is also a good idea to check on the availability of all
the items you need and if something needs to be ordered you'll have it when you are ready
to get started. For there is nothing more frustrating in building a pond is when you
require a particular item and finding out it needs to be ordered on sometimes it can take
up to 10 days for delivery. But one has to expect these things to happen especially if
constructing a large pond for there are so many items to consider.
Choose your equipment carefully and you'll enjoy
your water feature or pond more, plus if you have Goldfish and/or Koi they will stay happy
and healthy. Below will be a brief list of the equipment needed for mostly the larger
ponds but will do even for smaller ponds. One thing to remember before you start buying
what you need make sure you know the gallonage of your pond as well as explaining if asked
what your water feature will mainly be used for.
Bottom Drains
This usually not needed for small ponds of less
than 1500 gallons but ensure you are using a good submersible pump.
For ponds that are above the 1500 gallon size it
is recommended that a bottom drain be installed, two bottom drains for the much larger
ponds of 5000 gallons and up or even three can be used.
Skimmers
Smaller ponds can use a floating type skimmer for
the removal of surface debris and it also relives the surface tension of the water.
Side wall skimmer used in the swimming pool
industry work fine for the medium size ponds.
There are various manufacturers of side wall
skimmers for the larger size ponds and they are available with at least three different
size weirs which are fitted for gallonage and water flow.
Pumps
For the water gardener submersible pumps are the
most commonly used and there are many brands to choose from.
Ponds that are a bit more extensive, using an out
of pond pump is best suited. Choosing the right pump for your pond can be the most
frustrating decision to make at times, you need to know your gallonage, how much flow are
you expecting through your filter and waterfall. Need to also take into account your pipe
size, fittings and length of pipe from pond to pump and height pump needs to push the
water to filter, this is mainly for pump feed filters.
It is best to use pumps that are specifically
designed for Koi ponds and it should last for at least five or more years.
Filter
If your water feature is to contain fish use must
have a filter of some sort to be able to provide good water quality for your fish's health
and survival.
In pond filter work fine but are best suited for
the small water garden containing Goldfish and plants.
Your pond which will have Koi and plants or just
Koi without plants should be a size that is enough to handle the fish load.
One thing people tend to not take into account
when installing a filter is that Koi grow and they can double their size or more in a
year.
Without having a good size filter for your pond
will do nothing but give you headaches down the road and all sort of problems, from
unsightly water to fish health ending up altemintly death of probably your favourite Koi.
There are two types of filter set ups, pump feed
or gravity feed filter.
Can either purchase one of the many commercial
manufactured filters available or can design and construct your own which would fit your
particulacar pond design.
For use of filter media you have various types to
choose from in this area as well, they all have their pros and cons, one would just
research and decide what is best for them and their filter set up.
UV Light and Air Pump
These two items are sometimes overlooked when
building a pond at the start.
Installing a UV Unit and having an Air Pump can be
done afterwards but it is usually wise to include in your list of equipment needed.
A UV Light unit should be one that is rated
closely to your pond size even going past the rated size won't hurt.
An air pump comes in handy for providing the extra
needed air into your pond during the hot summer months when the oxygen content in the
water become low for your fish.
Also, during the colder Winter months when you
raise the air stone to just a few inches below water levle and depending on the strenght
of the air pump will prevent ice from completely forming over the surface thus leaving an
open space for any toxic gases to excape.
Some Pond Keeping Tips
Having a quarantine pond or tank is essential
nowadays for pond keeping, easier to treat one or two sick fish in a small pond than a
larger one. Plus when purchasing new Koi it is wise to isolate them for a period of time
before introduction to your other Koi, this is for the prevention of any new ailments.
Changing water because of build-up of pollutants,
caused by feeding, the amount you you need to change will vary, depending on the severity
of the problem.
Remember when changing the water it will affect
the make-up of your water chemistry in the pond in addition may stress your Koi. Test all
water parameters after any water change is completed no matter how small or large of a
change.
A long shallow stream bubbling over rocks and flat
surface may be good for oxygenation as well the looks of your pond the thin surface area
of the water absorbs heat during the summer creating that algae bloom in ones waterfall.
When you purchase your Koi or adding a new one,
make sure the water temperature in the pond is the same as where the Koi was last. If not,
then float the koi in the bag in your pond until the fish can acclimatise.
When salt is added to your pond the only way it is
removed is through partial water changes, this will dilute the salt concentration.
when adding water to your pond and to minimise
chlorination problems in the pond water, always use a de-chlorinater and spray the fresh
water from the mains.
When cleaning your filter media do not be too
thorough may disturb the colonies of bacteria, rinse media in pond water and flush away
the silt. Never scrub or use detergent to clean filter media.
When installing additional electiral outlets for
your pond be sure you GFI outlets for all electrical equipment.
Suggested Equipment for Different Size Ponds
To be added soon
Equipment
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1,000 - 3,000
gallon pond
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3,000 - 5,000
gallon pond
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PUMP
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LEAF TRAP
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FILTER
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BOTTOM DRAIN
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Equipment
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5,000 - 9,000
gallon pond
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9,000 - 13,000
gallon pond
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PUMP
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LEAF TRAP
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FILTER
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BOTTOM DRAIN
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Equipment
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13,000 - 17,000
gallon pond
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17,000 - 20,000
gallon pond
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PUMP
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LEAF TRAP
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FILTER
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BOTTOM DRAIN
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Temperature Conversions
C°
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0
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5
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10
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13
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15
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18
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20
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23
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26
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30
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32
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35
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F°
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32
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41
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50
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55
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59
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64
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68
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73
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78
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86
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90
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95
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SEASONAL CARE FOR YOUR POND - coming soon
KOI VARIEITIES - coming soon
Pacific Ponds Plus 1999
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